Derma Pearl Anti-Aging Skin Cream Evidence

The Ingredients in Derma Pearl were selected based upon their scientifically proven ability to permanently improve skin health and appearance.

Trans-resveratrol

The is the most active isomer contained in resveratrol, the so-called miracle red wine molecule.  Resveratrol has been shown to retard aging in mammals, reduce inflammation, promote improved DNA repair, and switch on the SirT-1,2 anti-aging genes in human cells. Biotivia is the acknowledged leader in resveratrol manufacturing and the creation of advanced formulations based upon resveratrol and complementary polyphenols, antioxidants and natural anti-aging compounds.

Collagen Synthesis Compounds

Collagen makes up about 70% of our skin's dry weight. As any material, it is subject to wear and tear, and slowly breaks down over time. In our youth, fibroblasts (skin cells – capable of producing collagen) replace broken collagen fibers. But as we age our skin's ability to replace damaged collagen diminishes. This leads to wrinkles and sagging skin and more vunerable to damage by UV rays. We could apply collagen creams but remember, collagen being a big molecule does not penetrate our skin and may expose us to the dangers of mad cow disease. We could get collagen injections, but one of the main drawbacks besides costs is injected collagen is quickly broken up by enzymes. Derma Pearl actually stimulates the production of your own natural collagen.

Ferulic acid

Ferulic acid is an organic compound that is an abundant phenolic phytochemical found in plant cell walls. It is a derivative of trans-cinnamic acid. As a component of lignin, ferulic acid is a precursor in the manufacture of other aromatic compounds which have been shown to afford protection of the dermis from sun, dryness and environmental pollutants.

Ferulic acid will reduce fine lines, wrinkles, age spots and sagging skin. It also helps to increase the elasticity and resilience of the skin, repairs UV-induced skin damage and skin aging, stimulates collagen and elastin production, suppresses UV radiation-induced oxidative reactions, acts synergistically with Vitamin C and E to improve their potency and has shown excellent anti-inflammatory properties in numerous scientific studies. Ferulic is safe and easily absorbed by the skin. Its ability to repair sun damaged skin makes it an important component of Derma Pearl.

Ferulic acid, like many phenols, is an antioxidant in the sense that it is reactive toward free radicals such as reactive oxygen species (ROS). ROS and free radicals are implicated in DNA damage, cancer, accelerated cell aging. Animal studies and in vitro studies suggest that ferulic acid may have direct antitumor activity against breast cancer ^[2] and liver cancer ^[3]. Ferulic acid may have pro-apoptotic effects in diseased cells, thereby leading to their destruction ^[3]. Ferulic acid may be effective at preventing serious UV damage induced by exposure to the sun and carcinogenic compounds benzopyrene ^[4] and 4-nitroquinoline 1-oxide ^[5].

Evaluation of the antioxidant actions of ferulic acid and catechins.

Antioxidant activity of 24 ferulic acid related compounds together with 6 gallic acid related compounds was evaluated using several different physical systems as well as their radical scavenging activity. The radical scavenging activity on 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) decreased in the order caffeic acid > sinapic acid > ferulic acid > ferulic acid esters > p-coumaric acid. In bulk methyl linoleate, test hydroxycinnamic acids and ferulic acid esters showed antioxidant activity in parallel with their radical scavenging activity. In an ethanol−buffer solution of linoleic acid, the activity of test compounds was not always associated with their radical scavenging activity. Ferulic acid was most effective among the tested phenolic acids. Esterification of ferulic acid resulted in increasing activity. The activity of alkyl ferulates was somewhat influenced by the chain length of alcohol moiety. When the inhibitory effects of alkyl ferulates against oxidation of liposome induced by AAPH were tested, hexyl, octyl, and 2-ethyl-1-hexyl ferulates were more active than the other alkyl ferulates. Furthermore, lauryl gallate is most effective among the tested alkyl gallates. These results indicated that not only the radical scavenging activity of antioxidants, but also their affinity with lipid substrates, might be important factors in their activity.

Carbohydrate esters of ferulic acid as components of cell walls of Lolium multiflorum

Carbohydrate esters of ferulic acid were released from cell walls of L. multiflorum by cellulase action as a mixture of at least 4 water-soluble compounds in which the carboxylic group of the acid was bound to the carbohydrate by ester bonds. The molecular weight of these esters varied from a few hundred to >50 000. Hydrolysis of 1 of the carbohydrate moieties showed that it contained xylose, arabinose and glucose units. The linkage of the carbohydrate esters of ferulic acid to other cell-wall constituents is discussed.

Ferulic acid antioxidant protection against hydroxyl and peroxyl radical oxidation in synaptosomal …

Pearl extract Pearl extract contains protein complexes, amino acids and polysaccharides which
Counteract the visible effects of chronological skin ageing
Provides essential skin nourishment, renews skin cells, often damaged by our hectic life styles, stress, overwork, environmental pollutants, and lack of exercise, stimulates skin cells’ metabolism, replenishes deep skin moisture level and evens and whitens skin color and improves skin glow and skin tone.

Pearl Extract and various other derivatives of Pearl were first tested in 1988 at a reputable Japanese University for a multi-national Japanese Drug Co., for Sun-Screen and Skin self-repair against UV-induced immuno-suppression which caused diseases to proliferate; such as measles and other viral disease that elicit a rash ie; poxes and herpes; parasitic diseases introduced via the skin i.e. malaria, dengue fever and leishmaniasis; and some fungal diseases (see UN environmental report 1989 and Update 1991). As it is now known that unlike the more commonly known threats of skin-cancers and cataracts which take years of exposure of Sun-UV before being full-blown, UV-induced immuno-suppression (effects of the sun on the immune system) effects are immediately damaging. The UV rays affect the skin's ability to detect whether it (skin) is infected by altering the Langerhans cells, thereby reduce the immune-response to the infection and allows viruses to attack more easily (see graphic in Sun and The Harm).

Idebenone
European scientists conducted double-blind placebo tests on the efficacy of idebenone on aging-skin and wrinkles. They concluded idebenone drastically reduces free-radical damage to our skin. Furthermore, It showed great capacity to reduce the most stubborn form of wrinkles - crow's feet. Idebenone is another powerful antioxidant. Antioxidants protect cells from environmental damage, improve the appearance of fine lines, reduce dryness, and smooth skin texture. A close relative to the compound Co-Enzyme Q10, idebenone has far greater skin penetration potential and a much higher oxidative stress protection capacity. Its lower molecular weight allows for greater skin penetration and extended shelf life stability.

Clinical efficacy assessment in photodamaged skin of 0.5% and 1.0% idebenone.

Idebenone is an antioxidant lower molecular weight analogue of coenzyme Q10. Previously, idebenone was shown to be a very effective antioxidant in its ability to protect against cell damage from oxidative stress in a variety of biochemical, cell biological, and in vivo methods, including its ability to suppress sunburn cell (SBC) formation in living skin. However, no clinical studies have been previously conducted to establish the efficacy of idebenone in a topical skincare formulation for the treatment of photodamaged skin. In this nonvehicle control study, 0.5% and 1.0% idebenone commercial formulations were evaluated in a clinical trial for topical safety and efficacy in photodamaged skin. Forty-one female subjects, aged 30-65, with moderate photodamaged skin were randomized to use a blind labelled (either 0.5% or 1.0% idebenone in otherwise identical lotion bases) skincare preparation twice daily for six weeks. Blinded expert grader assessments for skin roughness/dryness, fine lines/wrinkles, and global improvement in photodamage were performed at baseline, three weeks and six weeks. Electrical conductance readings for skin surface hydration and 35 mm digital photography were made at baseline after six weeks. Punch biopsies were taken from randomly selected subjects, baseline and after six weeks, and stained for certain antibodies (interleukin IL-6, interleukin IL-1b, matrixmetalloproteinase MMP-1, collagen I) using immunofluorescence microscopy. After six weeks' use of the 1.0% idebenone formula, a 26% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 29% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 33% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin. For the 0.5% idebenone formulation, a 23% reduction in skin roughness/dryness was observed, a 37% increase in skin hydration, a 27% reduction in fine lines/wrinkles, and a 30% improvement in overall global assessment of photodamaged skin. The immunofluorescence staining revealed a decrease in IL-1b, IL-6, and MMP-1 and an increase in collagen I for both concentrations.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 - Ultimate Botox* Alternative
Scientists in Spain have discovered a compound called Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, which evidence suggests, offers the same results as Botox without needles or the risk of damage to the skin or facial muscles. In other words, many doctors believe Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 has a similar mechanism of action as Botox... without the toxicity, pain and expense. Dr. Sumayah Jamal, MD (Assistant Professor of Dermatology at the NYU School of Medicine in New York City) says on Acetyl Hexapeptide-3:
"Botox* works by destroying a protein involved in the release of a neurotransmitter that would otherwise keep a muscle tense, allowing a wrinkle to form," By stopping the tensing motion and relaxing the muscle, the wrinkle seems to disappear, she says.The Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 operates to mimic that same Botox action by blocking the action of the protein. It doesn't destroy the protein, like Botox does, says Jamal, but instead simply keeps it from connecting to the cell and turning on the muscle contraction. The end result, she says, may be similar to medical procedures.  Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 blocks the nerve signals (neurotransmitters) that control the contraction of facial muscles. This produces a significant reduction in the appearance of both the depth and size of fine lines and wrinkles. Unlike Botox, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 does not involve paralysis, toxins or side effects.

Bioactive peptides: signaling the future

Natural processes within the body are modulated almost exclusively by the interaction of specific amino acid sequences, either as peptides or as subsections of proteins. With respect to skin, proteins and peptides are involved in the modulation of cell proliferation, cell migration, inflammation, angiogenesis, melanogenesis, and protein synthesis and regulation. The creation of therapeutic or bioactive peptide analogs of specific interactive sequences has opened the door to a diverse new field of pharmaceutical and active cosmetic ingredients for the skincare industry. Here, we describe the origin of such sequences, their role in nature, their application to dermatology, as well as the advantages and challenges posed by this new technology.

Additional studies and investigations relating to Acetyl Hexapeptide-3

Method and preparation for reducing skin hyperpigmentation

Skin peptides: Biological activity and therapeutic opportunities

Anti-wrinkle composition

Composition and method for neck skin firming

Cosmetic sun protection compositions based on lamelliform emulsions

Hexapeptide-3
"Botox* works by destroying a protein involved in the release of a neurotransmitter that would otherwise keep a muscle tense, allowing a wrinkle to form," By stopping the tensing motion and relaxing the muscle, the wrinkle seems to disappear, she says.The Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 operates to mimic that same Botox action by blocking the action of the protein. It doesn't destroy the protein, like Botox does, says Jamal, but instead simply keeps it from connecting to the cell and turning on the muscle contraction. The end result, she says, may be similar to medical procedures.  Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 blocks the nerve signals (neurotransmitters) that control the contraction of facial muscles. This produces a significant reduction in the appearance of both the depth and size of fine lines and wrinkles. Unlike Botox, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 does not involve paralysis, toxins or side effects.

In a clinical study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, acetyl hexapeptide-3 at a 10% concentration has been shown to reduce the depth of wrinkles up to 30% after 30 days of use.

Skin peptides: Biological activity and therapeutic opportunities

Use of an association of synergic calcium channel blocker agents for preventing or treating wrinkles …

Anti-Aging Skin Care Ingredient Technologies

Cosmeceuticals

The Design and Development of Anti-Aging Formulations

Palmitoyl oligopeptide
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide is a tripeptide. It enhances the product of collagen and GAGs and stimulates the growth of matrix and connective tissues enabling to become moisturized, soft and defined.
To test the wrinkle fighting properties of Palmitoyl oligopeptide-3, a study was performed on 24 female volunteers aged 42 to 66 years old. The volunteers applied a liquid foundation containing 2% Palmitoyl oligopeptide-3 once daily for two months. Images of the skin were examined microscopically. The size of wrinkles was found to decrease up to 36% with a 14% average decrease. The depth of wrinkles was found to decrease up to 27% with a 10% average decrease. For some subjects, deep wrinkles were nearly eliminated. On average, deep wrinkles decreased 40%. Medium wrinkles decreased up to 86%, with an average decrease of 25%.

Skin treatment using a new retinoid

Amino Acid and Peptide Conjugates of Arylalkylic Acids for Cosmetic Use

Anti-wrinkle composition

Cosmetic composition to accelerate repair of functional wrinkles

The Design and Development of Anti-Aging Formulations

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 3 (PT-3)
PT-3 is a synthetic peptide comprised of four amino acids whose sequence is SSNA (Serine,Serine, Asparagine, Alanine). As in PP-3, palmitic acid is attached to the peptide chain as a penetration enhancer to drive the peptide through the stratum corneum. PT-3 was formulated with the goal of suppressing the body’s production of excess interleukins, the chemical messengers which trigger the body’s acute inflammatory response which leads to glycation damage. Glycation affects the skin's support system—collagen, elastin and other proteins—and leads to wrinkles, sagging, loss of youthful contours and uneven skin tone. Inflammation is normally a protective response to tissue injury or destruction and is an important part of the body’s immune response.
As we age,the hormonal regulatory system begins to break down and significant levels of interleukins are found in the plasma even when there is no inflammatory stimulus. This results in high levels of inflammatory proteins in the tissues, slow tissue regeneration, tissue rigidity and a loss of healing potential. Theoretically, if the production of excess interleukins can be suppressed, the inappropriate inflammatory response will not be triggered and glycation damage will be inhibited.
PT-3 induced a marked dose-dependent reduction in interleukin production. The higher the concentration of Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 3, the greater the reduction in interleukin production – up to 40%. UV radiation is known to accelerate interleukin production. When the scientists exposed cells to UV radiation and then added PT-3, they achieved an 86% reduction of interleukin production.

In a recent double blind study, 15 volunteers applied a gel containing 3% Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 to the forearm twice a day for 14 days. The smoothness of the skin was then measured microscopically. Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 increased skin regularity by 23% and decreased skin roughnessby 14%.In a second blind study, 16 volunteers applied a gel containing 3% Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 to the forearm twice a day for 14 days. The hydration level of the skin was then measured. Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 increased skin hydration by a significant and clinically beneficial amount.

Cosmetic composition to accelerate repair of functional wrinkles

Immunostimulating lipopeptides

Compositions containing mixtures of tetrapeptides and tripeptides

Productos con efecto Botox

Cosmetic sun protection compositions based on lamelliform emulsions

Vitamin C
Vitamin C helps plump up thinning skin by increasing its production of new collagen.. With Vitamin C stimulating collagen production there is no known risk of allergy, no immune reaction and no injection-induced infection. Just natural collagen being deposited in an orderly fashion rapidly bringing back skin's softness, strength and elasticity. Vitamin C is an antioxidant essential to human health which has been shown to strengthen capillaries, which means fewer broken small veins are visible on your face.

Vitamin C also helps regulate the production of dark color producing cells. It helps correct and restore the balance of lackluster skin, dark patches and blotchiness. This evens skin tone and results in a dramatic improvement in skin radiance.

Vitamin C helps reduce evaporative water loss from skin, thus retaining moisture within the skin.
Vitamin C in the form of Ascorbyl Palmitate is used in our cream preparation. This form is more easily absorbed into the skin.

Vitamin E
Vitamin E is possesses free radical scavenging, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties which help protect the cellular membrane from free radical damage, improves the skin's water binding abilities (retains moisture) and has xcellent anti-inflammatory properties (reduces wrinkles). Moreover this essential nutrient moisturizes the skin and enhances skin smoothness.

Sunscreen ingredients:*
Avobenzone and octyl salicylate are the two most effective sun screen compounds approved by the FDA for use in skin creams.

*Botox is a registered trademark by the Allergan corporation. Derma Pearl does not contain this neuro toxin.